The Secret Language of IYKYK Jewelry

Signes et Symboles

A century later, this idea still flows freely through the Chanel DNA. Their 2026 Signes et Symboles high jewelry collection interprets this free-spirited mythology through exotic diamond cuts, stone carvings and bold, exuberant gemstones depicting stars, suns, camellias and Coco’s astrological sign, the lion. Each of these symbols came to embody the sartorial freedom Coco sought for women: stars evoked destiny, suns represented radiance, and camellias symbolized simplicity and independence.

Humans have been decorating their bodies with signs and symbols in both dramatic and covert ways for millennia. The regal, geometric structure of Chanel’s Imprimé Lion necklace calls back to some of the earliest coded jewelry, such as Byzantine regalia or Ancient Egyptian pectorals. Just as Chanel’s Signes et Symboles collection offers a glimpse back into the personal history of the maison’s founder, Ancient Egyptian adornments offer a window into a culture that existed more than 2,000 years ago. In this ancient society, jewelry is believed to have been a symbol of status and protection. Amulets represented a shared belief in the magic they could conjure for the wearer, such as invoking a god or goddess’s specific powers. 

For Those Who Get It

Today, the enduring popularity of astrological motifs and healing crystals suggests that jewelry still possesses a certain magic and mysticism. Luxury retailer Mytheresa counts astrological, zodiac, and celestial pieces among their strongest performing designs of the fine jewelry category. Meanwhile, healing crystals chime with Gen Z’s commitment to wellness, self-care and intentional living. A 2022 study from Springtide Research Institute found that 44% of 13 to 25-year-olds engage with crystals as a spiritual exercise. These pieces are chosen for personal and spiritual meaning and mythology rather than purely for aesthetics. 

Just as Coco Chanel repeatedly referenced her astrological Leo sign through lion motifs, young people today are seeking out zodiac-themed jewelry as a form of self-expression, spirituality and identity. “Jewelry is increasingly moving away from purely conventional markers of status and consumers are turning instead to more individual and emotionally resonant forms of expression,” Euromonitor business analyst Susan Gardner tells The Diamond Collective. “That includes bespoke design and cultural symbolism as well as fandom and values-led purchasing.” 

The Power of Belonging

One of the most striking recent examples of coded fandom jewelry emerged not from the fine jewelry sector, but from Taylor Swift’s mammoth Eras tour. Fans swapped friendship bracelets spelling out different words and catchphrases, such as song lyrics, titles or fandom inside jokes. These bracelets and their niche references might be recognized in public by other Swifties, but to everyone else, they would look like just regular DIY jewelry. 

“For many consumers, jewelry operates as a wearable language of identity and belonging,” continues Gardner. “Pieces can communicate cultural affiliation, fandom, gender expression, personal values and membership of a particular community. These signals do not need to be universally understood. Their power often lies in being recognizable to a specific group.” 

Jewelry is particularly suited to this form of self-expression. Heritage or heirloom pieces are precious and outlast fleeting fashion trends, allowing them to become a meaningful part of our personal history and identity, but they don’t have to be expensive to hold their value. “Jewelry with a personal story is more likely to outlast short-term fashion cycles,” notes Gardner, “encouraging consumers to retain, repair, restyle or eventually pass pieces on.”  

Queer-Coded Symbolic Jewelry

Coded jewelry can be a way to express belonging – and that expression can also be a lifeline. Historically, in queer communities, jewelry has been a way to recognize and communicate inconspicuously enough that you avoid unwanted attention and suspicion from outsiders. Shaun Cole, author of Don We Now Our Gay Apparel: Gay Men’s Dress in the Twentieth Century, has researched the coded significance of the pinky rings from the late 19th century onwards. “It didn’t necessarily always mean something on its own,” he says, “but alongside other codes and significations, it could be read to imply queer sexuality.” 

“If you knew what it meant then you knew what it meant,” he continues, “but if you didn’t it was quite innocent.” But what happens when everyone knows what it means? Today, these secrets, histories, and codes are at our fingertips. TikTok explainers and AI summaries break down meanings in ways that anyone can understand. The carabiner, for instance, also emerged as a coded lesbian symbol in the 20th century. By 2024, however, British Vogue reported that carabiners had become “the ultimate autumn accessory.” 

The Language Keeps Evolving

Decoding the cryptology of jewelry may be more accessible than ever before, but meanings still evolve over time. “Younger generations are looking to more niche expressions,” says Cole. “As human beings, we look for commonality and belonging.” Timeless symbols – like Chanel’s stars, suns and lions – are reborn in new forms as this search for belonging and identity re-emerges with each generation.

“Social media has widened who creates trends and gives them meaning,” concludes Gardner. Jewelry might be associated with history and heritage, but it is in these digital spaces that codes are evolving. Through niche fandom jewelry, astrological motifs and the reclamation of queer aesthetics, younger generations are writing its language of the future.