The Victorians Turned Yearning Into Jewelry

This period started with Prince Albert’s death and continued with Queen Victoria’s descent into a deep state of grief. Delicate, romantic patterns get replaced with more somber, heavy silhouettes and mourning jewelry. Gothic revival elements are in the spotlight, and silver becomes more prominent alongside yellow gold. 

The later part of the Victorian era saw stylistic movements that challenged convention. “Art for art’s sake” was the motto, the idea that art’s only purpose is to be beautiful rather than serve utilitarian or moral functions. A growing appreciation for Japanese art led to a focus on asymmetrical silhouettes and mixed metals. Diamonds were used with more restraint. 

But while tastes were changing, something much bigger was happening to diamonds themselves.

The discovery of diamonds in South Africa in 1867 was “a revolution for jewelry all over the world,” as Molesworth puts it, and made diamonds gradually more accessible beyond royal courts. 

Meanwhile, industrialization brought technological advancements to diamond cutting, which was previously always done by hand. The bruting machine, which helps turn a rough diamond into a round stone by grinding it against another diamond, was invented in the early 1870s. While hand-cut diamonds like Old Mine cuts and rose cuts were still prevalent, this innovation led to the creation of the Old European cut – the round brilliant cut’s predecessor. 

These changes elevated diamonds to center stage. “By the late 19th century, we see a plethora of diamonds in Victorian jewelry, with diamonds becoming much more commonly used,” says Molesworth. “Suddenly it’s not just about all the other colored gemstones – diamonds are becoming much more central to jewelry.” 

Diamond brooches were exceptionally popular during the Victorian era, and stomacher brooches, which covered a woman’s bodice from neckline to waist with sprays of diamonds, were prevalent.

Then there were diamonds that refused to stay still. According to Molesworth, notable Victorian diamond jewelry trends included en tremblant settings. This technique sets diamonds on tiny springs so that they vibrate with movement. While it existed during the Georgian era, it became much more elaborate in Victorian design and was often used to make tiaras, hair jewelry, and brooches come alive as their wearer moved.

The natural world was a great source of inspiration for Victorian jewelry designers, from motifs featuring birds, butterflies, or insects – Queen Victoria loved animals – to clusters of diamonds arranged in a bouquet.

Rose-cut diamonds were favorites of the Victorians – and they still hold an undeniable romantic appeal today with their round shape, flat base, and facets designed to look like a rosebud. 

Old Mine cuts, which are distant cousins of the modern cushion-shaped diamond, were also common. Old European cut diamonds, which emerged as diamond cutting techniques evolved, were rounder and offered more brilliance under gas and electric light.