Old Diamond, Completely New Mood

Why New Isn’t Always Better

Celebrity engagement rings have made unconventional choices feel cooler than ever.“Because there has been a lot of attention on celebrities that have gone outside the box with their own engagement ring, it has served as a ‘permission’ for others to do the same,” says Corina Madilian, co-founder of Single Stone. 

Taylor Swift’s now-iconic engagement ring, which features a rare Old Mine cut diamond in a custom setting, is one high-profile example of the trend. But the appeal is deeper than aesthetics. 

Younger jewelry lovers care about sustainability, with Capital One Shopping Research showing that 79% of Gen Z consumers consider it when choosing brands. And they don’t wear the same jewelry as everyone else. Resetting an heirloom diamond gives an existing natural diamond a new life and creates a one-of-a-kind piece with a story no one else can replicate. “So many rings are cookie-cutter, so an heirloom diamond allows them to show uniqueness and flair,” says Andrew Brown, CEO of myGemma. 

There’s a growing appreciation for natural diamonds that carry the tales of bygone eras and unique diamonds. “Younger generations seem more confident and comfortable with vintage stones and are embracing warmer colors or distinctive characteristics like salt-and-pepper stones and funky cuts,” adds Madilian. 

Heirloom diamonds offer a vehicle for personal storytelling while being both planet- and wallet-friendly. As Brown puts it, buying an heirloom and resetting it is a “value play” compared to what you would invest in a brand new diamond engagement ring. 

Not to mention the fact that natural diamonds are timeless and have lasting value, a quality that many shoppers are now looking for when investing in new pieces – 60% of customers told ThredUp that resale value is a key factor driving their buying decisions. 

Keep the Stone and Rethink the Rest

Ready to repurpose a pre-owned diamond? Maybe it’s a vintage brooch that becomes a one-of-a-kind engagement ring, or an antique-cut diamond with a soft glow that gets reset into a sleek bezel frame. 

Either way, you’ll need to be patient. There are a few steps involved before you get to admire the final result. 

• Inspection: The jeweler assesses the stone(s), noting any potential issues that could affect the removal and resetting process. 
• Design consultation: You discuss your ideas and vision with the jeweler, show them reference images, and get design suggestions. 
• Rendering and feedback: The jeweler works on highly precise 3D models of your design and sends you renderings for feedback. You sometimes get to try on a printed wax model of your piece to get a better idea of how it will look when worn. 
• Fabrication of the new setting: Once you approve the final design, the jeweler creates the new setting. Using new metal is often advised for more control over the final result and greater durability. Reusing the metal from an heirloom piece is possible, but it depends on its condition and whether it has undergone previous repairs. 
• Setting and finishing: The jeweler resets the diamond using the technique you’ve discussed during the design phase, whether you go with prongs that hold your diamond in place or a button-back setting.  

Before the Reset

Resetting an heirloom diamond is often a more budget-friendly alternative to buying a new engagement ring, but the total cost depends on the complexity of the project, and you can spend a few hundred to a few thousand dollars on a reset. A reputable jeweler should provide a detailed estimate before beginning the work. 

The timeline to reset an heirloom diamond depends on the work you want done, but you should allow several weeks for the reset from start to finish –  it isn’t something you want to do two weeks before a proposal (two months ahead of time is probably a safer bet).

While understanding how to reset an heirloom diamond can help you make decisions with confidence, there are a few other dos and don’ts to keep in mind during the process.

Expertise Matters

Working with the right professional can make or break (literally) the final result. “Stones that were set long ago and untouched in their original settings are not always in pristine condition. Knowing what to look for before a stone is unset can be significant for the outcome,” notes Madilian. 

A reputable jeweler will assess the diamond closely and look for chips, cracks, inclusions, abrasions, or any other factors that could compromise the removal or resetting process, she adds. Brown recommends working with someone who will make CADs and a wax model of the ring to try on in person, especially in the case of an engagement ring or a more elaborate design. “These extra steps cost a bit more but can be worth it for a more intricate design,” he says. 

Make It Work for You

You shouldn’t be afraid to wear and enjoy your heirloom diamond piece daily, so make sure that you choose a design that will not only look beautiful but also be functional. 

How will you wear the diamond? How will it interact with other pieces in your stack? Do you work with your hands? Do you have small children who may pull and tug on your necklaces and earrings? “Clearly identifying how the stone will be worn is important, as some stones work best in rings while other more delicate stones may be best reset into a necklace or pendant,” says Madilian.

Don’t Rush It

Even though you may be excited to transform an heirloom diamond into something new, you shouldn’t rush the process. You may talk to a few jewelers before choosing one. You may have several conversations about the design before the vision becomes clearer, and that’s OK. “Take your time so you design something that you will love,” recommends Brown.

Know When to Leave It Alone

Yes, you can reset and repurpose most diamonds. But there are rare cases when it’s best to reconsider. “Anything that is chipped along the girdle may make it tricky to remount into some styles of settings,” says Brown. 

Some pieces also have more historical significance than others – say, a true antique from the Georgian era, which is hard to find. In those cases, you may be advised to keep the jewel in its original form and restore it rather than reset it.